Western Peace

Xi'an, or Western Peace as it translates into English, may be the most historical city in all of China outside Beijing. Home to numerous dynasties, the city wall still encompasses the old city (except for the part where the modern government decided to knock it down to build the train station, a decision they now regret and are rebuilding the wall). The city embraces its history and holds more ties to the past than any other city I've visited in China so far.

Biking around the wall with my family was the non-terracotta warrior highlight of Xi'an. The weather was too hot to bike, but thankfully being that high up allowed a slight breeze to sweep some of the dry plateau heat away. The roofs of the city, though thoroughly modern I'm sure, aimed to feel old, and coupled with the red lanterns hanging from every lamp post I couldn't help but laugh thinking of what the grunt workers who built this fortification would say if they knew it was now used for foreign tourists to bike along.

At night, just outside the south gate, we encountered a community dancing festival. I'll never explain it correctly, except saying it was magical, as anyone could join in a group, snaking line dance complete with drums, and cymbals. The leaders carried and danced with umbrellas in the humid evening air and anyone and everyone (I even saw some other foreigners in the lines) snaked along, do-si-doing and having a great time. Though none of us joined in, we sat mesmerized for the better part of an hour watching the people of Xi'an have a swinging night out.


Among the other key sights were the museum, stocked with fascinating bronzes and other art from yesteryear, the Buddhist Pagoda and the Bell Tower, which we stayed near. The pagoda is apparently famously leaning, some compare it to that in Pisa, but the former's solid brick facade lacks the delicate beauty beauty of the later's delicate marble archways. The museum's bronze collection impressed me more than the collection of our famed Shanghai Museum, yet overall is no match for Shanghai's variety. The Bell Tower, and cousin Drum Tower, were beautiful central points to the city. Set on an axis with views down sweeping boulevards to each of the four gates, the Bell Tower is the heart of the city, oozing more cultural history than anything in Shanghai.

A beautiful city, a historical city, Xi'an is a city which cares for itself better than most cities I've seen in China. Blessed with a central location in China, it's witnessed more historical activity than most cities, but despite its history and population (of 8 million) it doesn't feel big. Perhaps it's because I live in Shanghai now, but perhaps it's because it, like my hometown, is proud of its history.