Self Appointed 8th Wonder of the World

The second half of my family's visit to China consisted of a visit to the ancient city of Xi'an. Most famous for the presence of the Terracotta Warriors, Xi'an was also the capital city for numerous empires. Still completely enclosed by ancient walls, the city has a much older much more 'Chinese' feel than Shanghai. And it's really hot.

The Terracotta Warriors are no doubt impressive, yet their self billing as 'the 8th wonder of the world' seems a bit much. Seemingly located inside an airplane hanger, the excavations are going slow and there is still much work to be done at the sight, so now only a few hundred of the thousand of soldiers have been restored. Once they finish the restoration of all the solders, the sight will be truly remarkable, but for now they have only uncovered about one end zone worth of a football field of statues.

The warrior pits contain different types of soldiers, ranging from foot soldiers to generals, archers to charioteers. Formerly standing in regimental rows, the shattered remains of fire and pillage have reduced the findings to fragments of clay which must be painstakingly restored. Like most classical art they were at one point dazzlingly colored, but almost all the color has come off.

We got to meet one of the men who rediscovered the warriors in the 1970's. I felt sad for him, as this simple farmer is now chained to a desk and forced to sign books for tourists like my mom and dad. I hope the government compensates him fairly, because I doubt he had much choice in the matter.

One humorous rumor I heard from a tour guide friend here in Shanghai is that the entire sight is fake. In 1972, after China had destroyed all its cultural relics, the government realized it might have gone too far and decided to cook up an archaeological sight. Easier to do when the country has been sealed off to foreigners and all the craftsmen of the country have been locked up. I don't believe its true, but its a funny thought.

There is no doubt the warriors are impressive, if only because there are so many and they are so old. Once the restoration is finished it will only become more impressive, perhaps earning its self given nickname.