The End of the World

If you have been paying attention to the news out of China, you might have heard the country is crippled by a major snowstorm. I want to assure everyone who is deeply concerned for my well being that I am alive and well. The .75" of snow in Shanghai may have been enough to delay my flight home from Harbin for 6 hours, but it is not enough to crush the spirit and resolve of the ex-pat community of Shanghai. We will perservere, and with just enough snow to make 1 snowball each, we might just have some fun.

In all seriousness, this is a classic case of snow in a place where nobody knows how to deal with it. To make matters worse, its the start of Chinese New Years next week, which is the biggest and longest holiday of the year so everyone goes home. To compare it to home, imagine if Dallas and Atlanta got hit by snowstorms right before Christmas, and you'll have an image of what this is like. The problem is nobody is prepared to deal with it or knows how. Most people travel by train, but many of the trains run on electricity; when the powerlines were cut by freezing rain the trains went dead on the tracks and nobody could move. How bad is it this communication problem? Ford and Toyota shut down production this week, and about 200,000 people are stuck in a train station in southern China. I'm doing fine - China has been better.

I've posted some pictures from my second day in Harbin: the day of winter sports. I had a distinct advantage over my Chinese counterparts given that they're from Shanghai (where an inch of snow shuts down half the country) and I'm from New England where six inches of snow might not even buy you a day off.

The morning was spent skiing, which I was perhaps the only person on the mountain with any experience with. By mountain, I of course mean hill, as in bunny hill. As you can see in the picture above, this ski resort there was only the one slope 150 yards long with a rope tow to the top. Most of my fellow skiiers struggled enough going up, that to expect them to remain upright going downhill was beyond ambitious. I waited in the crowd of people to get on the lift (no lines, just bunches of people jockying for position), and would take a nice 30-40 second run down the hill and repeat, often stopping to talk with my fellow travelers as they struggled to master thier new craft. Because there were limited options with skis, they fitted your ski size to your foot size. This resulted in my skiis being too big for me because in China the only people with size 10 feet are giants, which I am not.

After lunch, a small little northern Chinese style meal with an odd stickybun dipped in sugar for desert, the afternoon was spent sampeling other winter games. We took a horsedrawn sleigh ride and spent an hour sledding down hill. The sledding was most peoples favorite activity, as it was easier than skiing but still provided the rush of plummeting down a mountain on small sheets of plastic. The final activity was a rousing game of ice hockey where I looked like Wayne Gretsky and everyone else did thier best to not fall down. We played with sneakers on, but upon real ice with a real puck, making it closer to ice hockey than anything else I've every played. I had a blast, and I believe most of my teammates and opponents did too.

Dinner was a special and rare glimps into a world my parents could never have imagined as kids. I ate a delicious dinner while watching a performance of 1960's patriotic Chinese songs sung by performers dressed in full Red Army gear. The food itself was enjoyable because the meat used was familiar to me, not the random cuts of unidentifiable meet often used for Chinese food. The performance was terrific because I was there watching people sing passionatly in the grey uniform of the revolutionary army, the blue uniforms of the youth army and the green uniforms of the Red Army, all saluting and praising a picture of Mao. I loved it, honestly, it was so far from what anyone in America ever sees I couldn't keep a smile from my face.

44 Years give or take a Cultural Revolution

My job on my trip to Harbin was simple, be Western and speak English. All and all, a rather easy assignment given that (1) I was born in Boston, and (2) I only speak English (give or take a smattering of Spanish). With my job mastered, and a few bus games at the read to aid my cause, I was ready to handle anything any of the 13 paying customers (and one staff member) could throw at me.

Our shivering crew comprised of myself and the organizing staff member (from Shanghai), along with 2 mothers with a total of 3 children in tow ranging from 10-14, a married couple in their 30's, 2 young professional women traveling aside from their significant others, a 16 year old boy from Taiwan, 2 other girls from southern China (not Shanghai) and my male roommate. My roommate was a man in his early 30's who was unique to say the least. His English was poor and we were thrust live together because they hadn't booked enough rooms in the hotel. He slurped his drinks and went to bed early. Had he spoken English I doubt we would have gotten along, but as language was a barrier, it kept everyone in a fine enough mood.

The first night we arrived there were 2 events: Dinner and the Ice Festival. Dinner was at a traditional northern Chinese restaurant, a cuisine noted for its saltier taste and heartier flavors than the rest of China. This was easily discernible from the dishes served to us that first night, however I was depressed to discover that my two favorite dishes were the steamed bread and cabbage in soy sauce. While I made a point to try everything, I was worried and saddened that I didn't enjoy more of the food; however I was much relieved when my fellow travelers also complained about the food and we got free dumplings!

The evening activity was attending the oldest ice festival in China, which was started in 1963. Admittedly they had to take a break in the late 60's/early 70's for the cultural revolution, but I think they're going on year 34 (out of a possible 44) and that ain't bad! In addition to the traditional ice carvings judged for competition (the American Team won... USA! USA!), they had large structures of snow with lights frozen into the blocks. The result was something between beauty and gaudiness, as I didn't know whether to be enamored or repulsed by the Vegas-like light displays. There were slides, a small town square, and a giant Noah's Arc all made from blocks of ice. The picture shown is part of a pagoda and bridge garden typically resting on small koy-filled ponds in China; obviously there were no koy-ponds beneath this bridge. We were given 1 hour there and that's all my poor toes could handle. I would learn to wear more socks on my bunions, but not yet. We all scurried back to the bus at the 61st minute.

Shock and Awe

Having just returned from the northern city of Harbin I can do little to fend off the exhaustion brought on by 14 hours of travel (a few millimeters of snow in Shanghai and the country shuts down). I just wanted to give you a thumbnail of my weekend, perhaps to better wet your appetite for my lengthier accounts later.

The cold was Shocking. I can't say I wasn't prepared, but I lived to regret my first words outside the airport when I muttered, "Ah, feels like home." While the cold, dry air was more similar to Boston's winter than that of Shanghai, I have never experienced such a totally inhospitable climate first hand. My only recollection of temperatures like this was one January a few years back, when Alex, Andy and I walked across a frozen reservoir- but that only ended up with someone getting frostbite, so needless to say I was cautious in Harbin.

The locals told us we were lucky, that the temperatures last week were 10C colder than this weeks balmy high of -17C (2F), and that was before windchill. While residents of Harbin reacted to this heatwave by unzipping their coats and leaving the hat and gloves at home, I cared little for personal appearance choosing instead to seek complete and total warmth. The secret? 5 pairs of socks at once. I'm not even kidding, I went from 2 socks the first day to 4 the second, to buying a pair of wool socks to round out the 5 pairs on the 3rd (and coldest) day, which of course meant my feet didn't fit right in my shoes, but who cares I was warm, or at least not cold. The entire time I wore all 3 long sleeve shirts I brought (which, besides dress shirts, was all but 1 of the long sleeve shirts I brought to Shanghai). I had 2 pairs of gloves which I wore simultaneously, as well as my scarf, hat and 2 hoods. Needless to say I now understand why Dante chose the 9th circle of hell to be ice...

Yet, Harbin was Awesome! This is the home the wintry wonderland of ice and snow sculptures. The festive atmosphere flows from the blocks of ice they spend a month preparing through the lights on nearly every tree to the music blared from speakers everywhere you go. There are 3 main attractions - The Ice Sculpture Park(which is the oldest and original), the Snow Sculpture Park (the most subtle and beautiful), and the Ice and Snow Wonderland (the biggest and brashest). With their own uniqueness, style, scope and artistry there is one thing they all have in common - you will be cold when you leave.

I'll cut to the chase - I saw a 100 foot tall replica of the Temple of the Forbidden City made of snow, and a 200 foot tall staircase of a hill leading to a replica of the Acropolis in Athens made of ice. The latter, part of the Wonderland, is visible from over 1 mile away and isn't even the tallest ice sculpture in the park. As a person who measures beauty by the number of pictures I take, my camera battery died within 48 hours of arriving.

In addition to these sights I enjoyed the company of my 14 Chinese travel companions, the regional cuisine, the local entertainment and a day of snow sports including the Chinese take on Skiing. It was a great first trip to take while in China, even if grow unnaturally nervous whenever anyone mentions 'ice' around me for the rest of my life.

WALK this way

One would think that from country to county walking is similar. It seems a logical guess that Americans and Chinese walk the same, or at least similarly enough that I wouldn't notice, concentrate or obsess over it like I do. In truth, I have enough material (read: complaints) to fill numerous blog posts. The good news is I'm here for a year and like any good writer, I can file them away for slow news days. Instead I'll just comment on one area of Chinese foot traffic; passing through door.

Now, I can hear you saying, "but Dan, how can the way Chinese people walk through doors upset you?" Your right, its not logical until you see it and realize for yourself the insanity they inflict upon themselves. I've reached my threshold and can't hold it in anymore.

In my country, America, when boarding a bus/train/subway/taxi/boat/sub-atomic particle transporter, we wait until those departing disembark from the vessel before trying to move aboard. The Chinese do not share this custom, instead making a mad rush at the door as soon as it opens, regardless of whether people on the other side of the door wish to get out. The mentality appears to be, 'get on board as fast as possible no matter what.' I have had most of my experience with this on the subways, and I am very thankful that my commute doesn't require me to travel during rush hours.

On the subway platform there is writing and demarkation lines which state (in Chinese!) where to wait for the doors to open, and where to keep clear to allow passengers off. For the most part, the 'keep clear' lines are just a guide as to where to stand to be the first one on the train. Unfortunately because Physics needs to be obeyed (2 objects cannot occupy the same space at the same time), when everyone getting on and off the train try to pass through the same little doorway at the same time, a massive shoving match erupts between the two sides. Eventually everyone gets where he or she is going, but I could do without the bodily intrusions and rumpled clothing.

How does one deal with this dilemma? Waiting until everyone passes works well enough if your getting on the train, but you can't wait to get off or you will be packed in by the oncoming traffic. Surely sometimes there are smaller crowds which behave in a near civilized manner and allow a singular path out the middle of the door, while the masses rush the edges again creating mayhem, but at least letting a few people off the train with minimal shoving. Yet the 1.2 billion people in China are not all as polite, or conscious that there could be a gentler way to board a train, and sometimes one must confront the dilemma.

Again, I have found 3 options.
1) Let them shove you. If you just raise your knees, the crowd will literally carry you either on or off the train. This works well if you don't value your personal space or belongings (my biggest fear in these scrums)
B) Shout in Chinese "Tzu Lu", which I'm told means 'rude'. This is effective for very large violent groups because it causes shame among all the Chinese. Shame is a powerful tool, as the thought of 'loosing face' is such a motivator. The desired effect is something paramount to Moses parting the Red Sea. I've seen it used to great success.
III) Drop your shoulder and act like your on the Patriots offensive line. I'll admit, perhaps this is culturally insensitive (although I'm not sure, everyone else seems to be alright with shoving). I reserve this for the singular punk or two who clearly blocks the door and seems to be squaring me for a shoving match. But lets face facts, I'm 6'2" and weigh around 185Lb (I need to join a gym, that's not muscle weight), which is a couple of inches taller and a few dozen pounds heavier than your average Chinese person; I win. This is not to say I go Logan Mankins (Patriots all-pro offensive tackle) on little old grandma. No, I reserve that for the smug 20 something guy who thinks he can get on that train before I get off - he can't.

Why don't they just wait? What's wrong with letting people off first? I may never know, but I just have to make sure you got my pun in the 2nd paragraph - 'I've reached my threshold...' get it?! We're talking about doorways and.... ahh, alright. I'll stop.

Big Bamboo and the world of Sport

As I'm sitting at work, whittling away the last hour before I go home, wondering if I should correct the grammatical errors in my most recent blog entry and smiling because nobody showed up for my last class of the day, two thoughts consume my mind; 'I'm really tired' and 'thank goodness the Patriots won'.

I made a point of watching the AFC Championship game between the Patriots and Chargers this morning - monday morning. After researching a place to watch the game from, I settled on a little western style sports bar within walking distance of my apartment. The game began at 4am, meaning I had to wake up from my brief nights sleep at 3:20 to be sure to arrive in time to get a seat. Now, usually you couldn't pay me enough to get up at that hour (better chance I'd still be awake from the night before), but given the magnitude of the situation, it was easy.

Let me paint the picture for you. This is a team that I began watching the first weekend in September and became a part of my life. For 16 weeks (excluding their off week), I saw the Pats score at least 1 touchdown live on TV as they steamrolled through anything in their way. For day games I would perhaps only watched a quarter or two, but because the Patriots played so many games at night it became nearly a weekly party with friends, a brief tradition of watching, hoping and cheering. What I'm trying to say is this team became a part of my life then I abandoned it for China and the promise of new adventures. The day I left for China the Patriots beat the Jets 20-10. It was snowing and miserable outside and Tom Brady, for the only time all season, did not throw a touchdown pass. I left for the airport within 30 minutes of the game ending. I have a history, a relationship with this team, I could not abandon them.

Having missed the epic final game against the Giants, or their first playoff win against the Jaguars (the first two games I'd missed all year), I knew I had to see the AFC Championship game. The game was fair, my team won. I watched with a Patriot fan lawyer on my right and two Charger supporting observers on my left. Its strange to be somewhere that doesn't really get going until 5am on a Monday morning. I nursed my beer for 4 quarters and at 7:15am, contently walked back to my apartment for a few more hours of sleep with the Dropkick Murphy's blasting in my ears. I am a fan, it is my blessing, it is my curse.

With little sleep, and my obligation to be at work complete, I shall now go home to bed. In two weeks I will repeat this dance, for my team has but one more game to play. They will win, they haven't failed me yet, nor I them.

Noodles

Noodles is the name of the beloved little Chinese Mom-and-Pop restaurant located just around the corner from my apartment. Now Noodles isn't the official name, but the awning is full of characters and because they do actually serve noodles the name seems fitting. We were first introduced the day I moved in by my two roommates, Kevin and Alex (boy and girl) and it was love at first taste. Meals, which include the dish and a bowl of soup are 10RMB (about $1.35) and there are pictures on the wall of anything you'd want to order. There have to be about half a dozen small restaurants of the same genre nearby, but in part because I've had some bad meals in China and in part because familiarity breeds confidence, I stand by Noodles. This isn't to say my taste buds haven't strayed, for just last night on my way home from my companies Chinese New Years party, I sampled the cuisine of their inferior competitors next door. In addition to being more expensive, the taste was lacking, there were bones in their meat and they neglected to provide me with a starch (which is what I really wanted after the party). It was, however, open which my beloved Noodles was not.

I ate at Noodles twice today. For lunch it was noodles with chicken, potato and peppers and a tangy spicy seasoning. At dinner I ate beef, peppers and onions stir-fried over rice and I can't tell you if lunch or dinner was more delicious. The only thing that disappointed me was the man working didn't smile or laugh at me for coming back.

As I sat there at lunch waiting for my dish, this man went to the front of the store and pulled some stretchy white dough apart from its brethren which they keep in a bag. He needed this snow white dough as you'd expect taffy to be pulled and pushed, stretching it with his arms as far as they would go, then twisting it together like a tangled phone cord to need it back together. I was rather fascinated by the entire spectacle, but quickly realized he was making noodles before my eyes. Before I knew it they dough had been flattened and he was laying individual strips into the giant boiling pot of water facing the street as if to greet passerbys and announce that this indeed is a noodle restaurant. It was not until the man removed the noodles in a colander and, with the noodles still steaming, walked past me back into the kitchen that I realized I had just watched him make my noodles before my very eyes. Within another minute a stern but efficient woman presented me with my plate of delicious noodles.

As I ate and reflected on the wonder of watching my food prepared in front of me, a small boy who lives in Noodles played under my table. He can't be older than 3, but the restaurant is his playground and he has been very present and active in almost all of my visits. While I'm sure his hearty immune system can handle it, I can't help but cringe when I see him crawling. The boy is both wonderfully curious and not intrusively aggressive, usually studying and taking note of the foreigners that come in (me and my roommates rounding out that list so far as I've seen), but not staring. The child is neither thin nor overly fat, but perhaps a little larger than a boy who doesn't spend his free time in Noodles.

The picture of me and tea house is from my tour of Yuyuan gardens on my 3rd day in Shanghai, but I wanted to prove I actually was in China, and not making this all up from a bunker in my parents basement. Yesterday was my 1 month anniversary in China, that's 1/12 of my time here gone! The best news is that today for the first time I really feel at home. After a marathon 3 hour shopping excursion, I have my own sheets, my own tea mug (with dragons on it!), my own water heater and even my own toaster oven! After shopping I returned home to hang out with my roommates and watch movies. Its nice to have a home.

We All KEA

So, the momentous and much anticipated trip to IKEA happened tonight. After a mind numbing day of training (with no Italian food for lunch, some people wanted.... something different - lame), which was let out thankfully early, I skipped my Lou down to the great Blue and Yellow home of Swedish brilliance.

I'd like to take a moment to mention that EF is a Swedish company. The result of this fact is that all of our many offices worldwide look much like an IKEA office showroom. The desks, chairs, tables, water coolers, white boards and erasers all look like some blond haird blue eyed Swede thought them up and decided they should be sold in easy to assemble at home boxes. Having worked now in two offices for this fine company, I am well versed in assessing Swedish furniture.

That said, I got a couple of planks of wood and some cloth boxes for 50 bucks! Perhaps that is dumbing it down too much, because the truth is I'm gushing with excitement (as the next 7 paragraphs on every minute detail will attest). Its about 6.5 feet tall and 3 feet wide made of unfinished spruce with 5 shelves. Now because its unfinished it won't last as long unless I coat it myself, but I only need it for a year so.... we'll see if i get up the gumption. The white fabric like boxes fit perfectly into it (they aren't even suggested to go together, I'm just a friggen interior design genius. I didn't even like the show Top Design on Bravo). When it occured (I'd already written the next 3 paragraphs) that I could just post a picture of it for you... well, lets just say I was shocked and amazed and loving the 21st century.

In truth I still need a little bit more to complete the room, maybe another small bookshelf or a better desk (this sorry excuse for a table won't cut it forever). All will be assembled with time...

In the meantime, I'll show you more pictures of the JinMao tower (in front, unknown taller tower behind) while I explain why I was cold last night. So, for the past 2 nights, we've had no central heat. Now, this isn't the end of the world because, well the central heat is really just 1 heater in the common room and doesn't do much for heating the bedrooms, so I'm better off with my pair of space heaters. Until last night, when for reasons that will be obvious to the astute technician, we blew a fuse - causing the power to be cut to my bedroom, and one of my roommates. My lucky duck third roommate, is on a different switch and was toasty warm all night.

So last night I shivered and called on my Bryce Canyon camping experience (where we camped at 8000 feet in mid October causing our water bottles to freeze solid overnight despite being left in the car), and donned 2 pairs of pants, pajama top and hoodie sweatshirt and winter cap [plus socks] and as many blanks as I could find, which was 2. The good news is I survived the night. The bad news was I eventually had to get out of bed, which was to the sound of the security guard banging on the door to be let in. One of my roommates had informed her of the electricity problem on her way out, and I was the only one left to let the technician in. He took a look, told me he'd be back at 1:30 and left. Having NO idea how these things work in China, I went to work and left it in the hands of the powers that be (namingly that technician dude). To my joy, delight and glee, when I stumbled in from IKEA with loads of stuff, a faint glow was emitted from my bedroom - my alarm clock was on!

- As a result, I'm giddy all over about my new bookcase and having heat tonight. Its been a good night. Oh yeah, and the New England Patriots rule.

My Apartment

So, I've moved into my apartment now. Is it all I dreamed it was? Am I swimming in a sea of happiness? Have my wildest fantasies come true? Not exactly.

My apartment is cold, very cold. All cities built north of Shanghai have central heating, meaning Shanghai is the coldest city without central heating built into any of the apartment buildings. There is one main heater for the apartment, but it is in the common room. In addition, I don't know if the Chinese care much for insulation. The combination of these factors causes bone chilling cold throughout the apartment.

Let me elaborate for a moment on the cold. Obviously I know colder than Shanghai, where the temperatures hover in the 30's, with maybe a half dozen snow flakes falling and not sticking on Sunday night. The problem is that this is 'the wet cold' anyone who has been to Scotland in winter knows what I'm talking about. Its like the reverse effect of humidity in heat, dampness in cold makes it feel way worse. Perhaps this is why the English and Chinese both like tea so much. Good thing I do too.

My little room came equipped with a bed, a bedside table, another table/desk thing and 2 clothing racks on wheels to hang stuff up on. Also, I was given a small portable heater which functioned more like a hot fan you'd put on a table than a conventional stand up radiator style heater. After shivering through the first 2 nights I bought one of those stand up style heaters, which seemed to help last night, but it might have just not been as cold. We'll decide by Friday and maybe return the thing. It took me 2 days to get organized, but I feel pretty close now. There is an IKEA in Shanghai, so I'll need to hit that up to grab either a dresser/bookcase or perhaps a wardrobe (cuz I always wanted one). I also need a chair... A big, ol', feel like a million bucks comfy chair.

A quick description of my neighborhood. I live on the bottom floor of a large apartment building with 3 roommates. All seem nice but they seem to work in the day, and I work into the evening, so as of yet we have not seen each other much. I live in a part of town known for shopping, westerners and bars. Now near me there is a quint little noodle shop I was shown with great cheap noodles. As you get closer to the subway I pass a Burger King (a nice departure from McDonald's, though I'm avoiding the later already and have decided to do the same with the former when possible), as well as a Burburry store (which I swear on the heads of my unborn children I will not set foot in). Its a hip area, I'm well pleased. I can be at work in under a half hour from when I leave my apartment. If I go 2 stops the other direction I'm at a large Wal-Mart like store (Carrfour), which I know is bad and I should be looking for the Chinese experience, but sometimes its nice to shop where it feels.... normal, especially when buying sheets, space heaters, etc.

Well I have to run to class, but I wanted to mention yesterday I had to go to teacher training all day. This was good and bad, as I learned a lot and didnt' have to teach, but as with any full day lectures, I found myself getting bored, which naturally causes me to be disagreeable and forces the belief that my teachers are incompetent upon me. Either that or I disengaged when the teacher misspelled the word 'quiz'. She is from England and at first I thought maybe it was a British thing - its not, she just couldn't spell. I'm back tomorrow for a full day of training with best thing to look forward to being lunch (there is an italian restaurant nearby) and afterwords when I hit up IKEA!

Laser Fight

Saturday I went with a group of students to play Laser Tag. It was my day off, but who can pass up the chance for a free day of laser tag (besides I would have only sat around the office on my day off anyway). I noted that they didn't call it laser tag, but laser fight, which made it sound much more violent than it really is. Then again, once I get the pictures (I know I say that a lot, but sit tight, pictures at the end of this post!)

Anyway, I had to wake up about 3 hours earlier than i'm used to (for my own protection I won't tell you when that was). We took a bus (we being me and the other teacher, the organizer and the 22 students) an hour and a half outside the downtown to a little rural patch where the laser tag was. We divided into 3 teams (me being captain of the red team), and were dressed in army fatigue and given guns and vests. Now when I say guns, these were serious replicas, they were heavy, they looked real and they didn't have orange tips. Mix this in with the bamboo huts and natural terrain, and I swear it felt like I was stuck in a past US war (probably Korea). The battle fields were small fenced in areas with man made, but natural protection. There were elevated huts to shoot out of, ditches to jump and bushes and trees to hide behind. We played 2 games that morning, winning handily each time. The guns and vests didn't match up always, so you could be point blank and seemingly miss. No matter, a good time was had by all - rolling in the mud, jumping ditches and running around executing masterfully conceived battle plans.

For lunch we went to a native Shanghainese restaurant, serving dishes exclusively of fish (we were less than 1Km from the sea). A really nice meal considering it was real Chinese food that I don't get otherwise (i usually eat noodles and dumplings). After lunch was more fighting (though less organized, more of a general fighting scrum). We all had a very fun day and I was exhausted and sore at the conclusion. Students and teachers (thats me), mixed well and everyone got along, many of the students were of a very low level, so a few key students did a lot of translating, but I enjoyed my excursion as did the students who also got exposure to a native speaker outside of the classroom.


More Pictures!!! See up there, thats a picture of the Shanghai Skyline from the Bund. Its looking east towards the area of new development called Pudong. Its a beautiful skyline, especially at night when they light it all up. So I did a little research and the JinMao tower is supposedly the 3rd highest in the world (but that could be wrong). The JinMao is the one on the right side with the pointy top next to the one with the hole in it. The one with the hole in it is under construction next door, but will be taller once completed. It looks even cooler than the Jin Mao I have to admitt, but this skyline rocks no matter where you look at it from.

Oh yeah, in other news I finally moved into my apartment and will have more to say on that later, for now Shanghai has become very cold (as in 1st snow of the year), and while I know Boston is colder in winter, the shock (and poor heating) is making this very very uncomfortable.

Fashion Show

So yesterday I made my modeling debut. The office was in need of a teacher to pose for an advertisement in a fashion magazine, and I happened to have about 5 hours off in the middle of the day (it was a slow day). So they posed me with a Chinese model and a few other native representatives to take a series of photos. First they had me exchanging business cards with the girl (who couldn't stop laughing, meaning one of us was a terrible model... I'm guessing somehow it was me). Then they had us watching a presentation with me explaining the finer points of some bit of English to her. Now this wasn't without problem, as the director/photographer spoke only Chinese, as did my co-model. There was one EF rep there to assist with the entire thing, but he didn't bother to listen and translate for me, only talk to me in English and the rest of the staff in Chinese and never explain what everyone was saying. Despite the communication gaps, I believe the shoot went very well (what do I know?). I regret having not shaved that day, but the rugged scruffy look is in, just ask Tom Brady. Perhaps this will propel my modeling career onto bigger and better things, and to be honest, I only want to be famous enough to get free dumplings.

The Jin Mao Tower

The Jin Mao Tower was the tallest building in China proper, until someone decided to build a taller building next door. That new building isn't complete, so I suppose official the Jin Mao still holds the title. I went up to the top yesterday, only to discover the clear weather that had begun the day, didn't feel like sticking around and the perpetual afternoon haze of Shanghai returned. I still could see far... by Shanghai's standards of about 3 miles (you have to understand how dirty this city is). Anyway, I waited it out until nightfall and then was treated to a beautiful display of lights from the city below. Now, Shanghai is a city of skyscrapers, but this one towers above them all. Looking down so far on all the other 'towers' you realize just how much bigger this one is. Fun facts of note, there are signs at the base that say 'no climbing', why? Because there are lots of handholds and bars all the way up the outside, inviting you to climb it like a jungle gym. After 2 people did try, they put up signs. Also, it holds the highest hotel in the world (not the tallest hotel, just the hightest...). See the Grand Hyatt starts at the 55th floor and continues to the 88th. Inside there is a singular atrium spanning that entire distance (its so pretty!!) Also, they have about 4 restaurants that are pricey by Shanghai standards (but not that bad compared to the west), which are situated on the 56th floor and have lovely views over the city (hint, hint, mom and dad). Needless to say, this is a truly modern skyscraper and a wonder of the world. I wish I had my camera to show you the pictures.... but you know the story... I don't, we'll all have to wait. China can hang with the very best of engineering and construction when they want to it appears.

The Streets

Well, I find myself at work on my weekend (which happens to be The weekend, but because we teach 7 days a week, there is always people and classes going on). I decided to take this opportunity to express my distaste for the street people of Shanghai. There are 3 types of Chinese people who approach westerners so we'll examine them in depth independently.

We'll start with the best type, the university students who really just want to practice a little English. They usually travel in packs of about 3 and will shout to you 'Hello' but not seem too interested if you don't respond. They can usually be found in populated areas that are usually devoid of tourists, such as parks. I like these people, while the conversations are usually short and light, centering on where I'm from and how I like Shanghai.

The next group is the beggars. Perhaps I'm a little surprised by the number of beggars, because given that it is a communist state I expected more of a welfare system in place. Most of the beggars are women and children, and they are relentless (although apparently less so in Shanghai than in the smaller cities). They wait at cross walks where you have to stand to wait for the walk signal and will stand in front of you shaking their cup for almost a minute before moving on to the next person, saying 'no' or 'i'm sorry' doesn't usher them along either because they can't understand or they believe persistence will pay off. Its really sad to see the children, because you know the parents have taught them to do this and you can't help but wonder what kind of life they have in front of them. They run along side your legs saying 'money, money, money'. I've even heard stories of the children latching a hold of westerners legs and refusing to let go until they're given money. The residents of Shanghai I've spoken too aren't too concerned with homeless/beggars, but there do seem to be a relatively high number and are much more insistent than i've encountered in other cities.

The 3rd, and by far most annoying type of people are the salesmen/women. Frequent in popular tourist areas, they know English for one reason alone, and that is to separate westerners from their money. I can divide this group into two subsections. The first is the watch sellers. They just sort of mull about on the street and as you approach will pull out a little picture of a watch or a handbag and will say 'Hello, Watch? Handbag? DVD?". I originally refused politely, saying 'no' or 'no thanks'. But I am human and can only take so much, so now I walk past, eyes ahead, not speaking as if refusing to acknowledge their existence. I find it is the easiest solution. Now, the worst part about these types of people is they are everywhere. I mean, when these people are stationed every 20 feet on the street, do they think I changed my mind since the last person asked me 5 seconds ago? No, I don't want to buy your stupid knockoff watch, I've no need for a handbag, and I won't follow you down that scary narrow little ally to your 'shop' where you can bang me over the head with a lead pipe and take my iPod. - the other type of saleswoman is the type that leans out of their store as you pass and says 'Hello' in the friendliest possible way, only to be followed by a request for you to step inside her store. This is usually worst when you go to a market because everyone expects your there to shop (soaking in the atmosphere in peace is prohibited).

The unfortunate end result of these people is that I cannot trust anyone on the streets (thankfully I've never come across a pickpocket yet). The hollow 'hello' is thrown around as a means of marketing. What does this mean? Rather than heading to beautiful (but touristy) YaYang Temple, with the classic Chinese roofs and lots of stores, I swing by work; why? Because at the temple, there are 20 kabillion street people trying to sell watches. So not cool.

Meals of 2007 (and being homeless)

Well, I'm finally feeling the first onset of an illness. Nothing major, just a few aches and pains, a little tired, runny noes, grogginess, or what any mother would call a bad cold (although I'm sure when the mother's son is in Asia, they're much quicker to proclaim it Avian Flu... its not, I'm fine, don't worry mom).

I've moved out of my hotel, which despite being located in a terrible location (public transport stopped at 7pm, and I work until 9pm most nights - after coming in at noon) was actually a rather nice place to live. They had breakfast every morning if i got up (which I skipped more and more frequently once adjusted from jet lag), they changed my sheets, I had a decent sized room to myself with a view, I had TV with 4 channels in English, thus making it a pretty nice joint all and all. Now I'm homeless.... or at least living in a hostel for the next 10 days. I have an apartment (and its rather nice, with 3 other Americans), but for now its the lovely UCool Hostel Shanghai. I'm in a 12 person room, but thankfully because it is not high travel season, I'm the only one in it!

Now, every year around New Years I have a personal tradition. It doesn't even involve my family per say, just whoever is around. My tradition is to recount the best meals I have eaten in the past year, always excluding major holidays like Thanksgiving and Christmas, because no duh they'll be great. Now just so you know, taste is a major criteria, but also surrounding and company. I know this has nothing to do with Shanghai, but I wanted to have a look at my best 5 or so meals of 2007.

The first one that jumps to my mind was at a restaurant called Georgia Browns in Washington DC I had with my brother and his roommate when I visited over Thanksgiving. Jump Shrimp stuffed with Crab Cake in a thick buttery brown sauce. Probably the best meal I had all year.

Also memorable was my trip to Aurther Bryant's BBQ in Kansas City. Quite simply the most famous BBQ restaurant in the world, and it didn't disappoint. Going with my brother and uncle, we were treated to great brisket at a place where the line was out the door on a Thursday afternoon.

Then it is difficult to distinguish my favorite meal from the weekend of my cousins weeding in Austin. Between the authentic Tex/Mex, the rehearsal dinner at an all you can eat BBQ (the Salt Lick) and the reception itself, it was 3 straight delicious meals. I refuse to choose.

Rounding out the list simply as memorable meals are the goulash I cooked for my family over Thanksgiving weekend (coupled with the mexican breakfast the next morning) and when my roommate Tom cooked for our esteemed guest Min (owns an Indian restaurant).

Maybe I forgot one or two - like the Brazilian BBQ i had in Shanghai (I'm kidding, that was memorable, but totally different reasons). Well with a new year comes new adventures and new trips to the exciting culinary world of China.

Maybe my calling is as a food critic.... whadya think?

Happy New Years

Admittedly my writing hasn't been as consistent the past few days, but I can take a mulligan on that and blame it on the New Years, eh? In some ways I'm settling in, in others not at all. I'm still very much in an adjustment period and on holidays, especially during the days off work it can get lonely.

But the night life is fantastic! Perhaps I should be careful with what I say, but because Boston is so expensive and... collegiate, the bars here are like nothing I've ever been to before! Friday night I went out with some of my Chinese co-workers to a little club. We had our own elevated booth overlooking the dance floor with servants who would refill our cups from the pitchers when we finished. We played a game I'd seen in Pirates of the Caribbean (the 2nd or 3rd, I forget), kind of a guessing/ante game with dice. Topping this awesome cultural experience off (i was only one of maybe a handful of westerners in the club at all) is that it was paid for a by one of the Chinese blokes we were with. Apparently he is the heir to a steel company or something, but he was more than insistent on paying for things (going as far as taking our credit cards from the server when we gave it to her). OH, and they had lasers and fog in the entry way.... Lasers and Fog!! I don't think I've ever been to a place as Matrixlike as that... Oh, then the next night I'm sitting in my hotel room, minding my own business, reading my book when a buddy calls me and invites me out. We go to a club called VIP - I don't know how that works as a name, I always though it was a status. Anyway, its a night club full of westerners (and really beautiful westerners at that, but beautiful in that Eurotrash kind of way). With a famous DJ (apparently, like I can tell the difference). I'm not sure if I was stealing or what, but from what I gathered they simply put cocktails on the bar and you could fill your glass up as you pleased. Perhaps this was the VIP treatment the name alluded to...

Not all is fun and games however. I would like to report my food disasters. I went to a restaurant next to my work called 'KungFu' with a picture of Bruce Lee as their logo - I mean how could they suck? Well they do, somewhere between the lettuce boiled with peanut butter (that's what it tasted like) and the soup that legitimately had a layer of fungal looking material over it - they served a bowl of rice I managed to eat; Never again. At least until the next night when I tried to eat at a local little hotpot restaurant. I ordered by pointing at a picture and waited patiently until they brought out a steaming, boiling pot of digestive track. I'm assuming it was large intestine from a cow or pig, but it may have been something more unthinkable... I hope not, but its never good when you actually consider using 'poop' as an adjective to describe a meal. I don't have a better description, it was chewy and didn't taste terrible going down, but every time i burped it would fill my senses with a horrific feeling. I ate a few bites before keeling over in pain - just kidding, before I walked home and picked up dessert on the way.

Finally I had to have my 'welcome to Shanghai' medical check for everyone moving here. Its actually a rather odd practice, as they just run a few medical tests to confirm you're not going to cause any sort of epidemic in their country. Basically there is a hallway with 8 rooms off either side of it in which they run different tests. I had my first ultrasound, they took an X-ray with a big loud old machine which causes cancer within 50 years of everyone who sets foot in the same room as it, and did the other standard pokes and prods. By far the most terrifying moment was when I entered the 'bloodwork' room. No lie, I nearly fainted. It was the though of getting poked with a needle (i'm squeamish) by CHINA. The room looked like what you'd expect, stark, sterile, white, gurney here and there, 2 attendants (wearing masks) with a box of elastic ties, vials and needles. Closest I've ever been to fainting.

Final thoughts on the day... I picked up my suit and shirts. The suit didn't fit right (i took it back to be refitted), major bummer, but the shirts look STYLISH!! Maybe I'll post a picture. I also had to move out of my hotel room. I'm living in a hostel now, not exactly prime living, but I have an apparent lined up to move into mid January, so I just have to make it about 12 days.